Margot and I
were waiting in Holyhead for the ferry that would bring us across the creek to
Ireland the last time I spoke with you. Boarding the ferry was a fairly simple
process involving a long line, a bus ride, and reluctantly handing our bags
over to some men whose shirts claimed they worked for Stena Lines although they
stated that they worked for Irish Ferries. When we stepped on board I was a
little surprised, this wasn’t so much a ferry as it was a cruise ship. Equipped
with a casino, movie theatre and food court we began to navigate our way
through this floating city in search of the observation deck. While on board
this hunk of floating metal we finally found our way to the top of the ship and
out onto the observation deck. It was a really cool experience, I felt like I
was on the Titanic as the slowly fading coast line was engulfed by the
never-ending sea. After gazing around and taking in the beauty of the ocean we
completed the Titanic image with a couple pictures leaning over the railing of
the ship and then stepped inside to relax for the rest of the ride. We ended up
playing Bananagrams and while I wish I could say otherwise, Margot whooped my
ass. After we docked in the Dublin harbor we stepped of the boat and I felt
Dublin under my feet for the very first time.
At the present moment I still consider Ireland to be my favorite country
of the trip thus far and it’ll be a tough task for any future countries to top
its splendor. We got into Dublin about mid-day on Tuesday the 14th
but it took us a fair deal of time to take a bus into town and then find our
way to the hostel, which included befriending a man named Jared who was from
Belfast, really into skiing, and staying at the same hostel as us. Once he lead
us to the Times Hostel we checked in and inquired about a meal deal for the pub
around the corner that involved a pint of Guinness and a Beef Guinness Pie for
just 10 Euro. We threw our stuff in the rooms and skipped down to the pub to
enjoy a nice hot meal and a fresh brew. After inhaling the delicious food we
decided to take advantage of the free wifi at our hostel and have a nice
relaxing night catching up on our emails and Skyping friends. So we proceeded
to stay up until about 2 AM engulfed in the land of free internet.
The following day we grabbed our
free daily breakfast of stale bread and butter before venturing into the city.
Unfortunately the weather was pretty poor so we decided to visit some of
Dublin’s indoor sights while it was raining. First, we went to the National
Library where they had exhibits on the writer James Joyce and the poet WBY
(William Yeats). On Joyce they had copies of all of his drafts so you could see
how the books progressed as he worked on them. Just looking at the pages was
incredibly confusing and to the untrained eye appeared to be very unorganized. There
were random sentences all over the pages that were scribbled out with crayon.
According to the library Joyce would copy all of these sentences one by one
into his next draft, crossing out the ones he had transferred with whatever
writing utensil was available and would correct and add more as he went along.
Another interesting part of his developmental process was that he never
eliminated anything he already had in one of his drafts, he only added more. It
was a really interesting exhibit that helped spark some ideas about catching up
on my foreign literature, which shouldn’t be too hard based on the amount of
time Margot and I will spend on trains during the next 4 months. In fact I’m
just about done re-reading Anne Frank’s Diary and Joyce’s Ulysses and The
Dubliners are on my travel literature list as well. The WBY exhibit was a bit
more elaborate and I found it to be very informative and interesting even
though I’ve never been able to get myself very excited about poetry and can’t
recall specifically reading any of Yeats’ poems before. It was really cool to
learn how famous and talented Yeats and all three of his siblings became during
their lives but what I found most interesting was his love life and political
influence. He fell in love with his cousin Maude early in life and while he had
other love interests throughout the rest of his life, such as his wife George
and an author named Margot Ruddock, it seemed that he never curbed the feelings
he had for his one true love, Maude. Maude broke Yeats’ heart when she got
married in 1904 to a man that Yeats openly expressed discomfort with and Maude
apparently came to her senses when she got divorced after only a couple years
of marriage. While Yeats and Maude never did end up marrying she was a very
influential figure in his writing and his life. Yeats’ wife George on the other
hand did something called Automatic Writing, which I understand to be a form of
writing where you’re not in control of your body and some other invisible being
is controlling your writing. It sounds interesting but I think I would opt for
the much more plausible explanation, which is that George may have been a
little crazy. Yeats was also an important political figure, using his writing
to encourage the Irish people to stand up against Britain and fight for
Ireland’s freedom. He was really upset when he missed the Easter rebellion in
1916 because he was working in America. He played a major part in the Abbey
Theatre and thought of himself as not only a poet but also as a novelist and
screen writer.
From there Margot and I took a
short walk to the National Museum, which had exhibits on the Romans in Ireland,
Vikings, and Ancient Irish artifacts. The Irish used to hoard all of their
belongings and bury them near lakes or rivers. Historians don’t know exactly
why they did this but we’re lucky that they did because this helped preserve
their belongings over huge periods of time so we can enjoy and learn from them
today. After the museum we walked over to St. Patrick’s Cathedral which was
very similar to the cathedrals that we found in England except not as large.
Inside the Cathedral they had this old oak door with a hole in it which used to
be the door used to block an entrance to a safe-hold within some Irish city.
Well one day there was a huge battle and one side felt defeat quickly
approaching and ran for the safe-hold, locking the door behind them. The
general of the opposing side proceeded to watch the battle get way out of hand
as soldiers from both sides were dropping everywhere. So he approached this
door and informed the general hidden inside that he desired a truce and asked
him to open the door so they could negotiate one. The hidden General thought
that this was might be some sort of trickery and decided that he would not risk
everybody’s life within the safe-hold by opening the door. So the General
screaming for a truce took out his war axe and chopped a hole in the door, then
stuck his arm through it as a sign of good faith to all those inside. Appeased,
the hidden General opened the door and a truce was created and signed. I
thought it was a pretty cool story of heroism from an Irish General.
Margot and I then walked back to
our hostel for a free dinner before we decided to go out for the first time
during our Eurotrip and enjoy Dublin’s night life. We went to a bar called The
Auld Dubliner in a nightlife area call Temple Bar and met these three girls who
turned out to be a ton of fun. Kate and her friend Bec were both from Australia
and last year they met this Irish girl named Christy when she was on vacation
in Australia. Well both Kate and Bec are in the middle of Eurotrips themselves
right now and decided to meet up with Christy in Dublin so all three of them
could hang out together again. They had a ton of energy, especially Kate and we
had a great time dancing and enjoying each other’s company. After exchanging
numbers and Facebook names we stumbled back home and I immediately passed out.
The following day was not wasted to a hangover though as we spent it on a six
hour bus ride from Dublin to Doolin through Limerick.
Doolin:
When we finally made it to Doolin on the west coast of Ireland we were
exhausted, I’ve found it incredible during this trip how exhausting simply sitting
on a bus or train for umpteen hours can be. In Doolin we stayed at this great
hostel named Flannigan’s, the owner of which gave free Irish dancing lessons to
all his guests and was incredibly friendly. We decided to go into town and grab
some food before we collapsed and I had a delicious meal of Lamb Roast while
Margot had one of the eight Shepard’s pies that she’d eaten in the past week in
a half. We met this bar tender at the bar named Cathal, pronounced ka-hil, who grew
up in the area and was incredibly friendly. In fact I think the general consensus
among Margot and I about the Irish people is that they’re all incredibly
friendly. After dinner we went back to the hostel to take a nap before going
back into town to see some live traditional Irish music and then get some Irish
dancing lessons. Unfortunately, we never woke from our nap and missed all of
these awesome Irish events. After waking up the following morning and vouching
not to miss both of these things later that night we started our walk out to
the Cliffs of Moher. It was about an hour in a half walk to get to the cliffs
and then we spent a couple hours exploring them. They were absolutely amazing!
The cliffs are by far the coolest thing I’ve seen on this trip so far and might
be the most impressive thing I’ve ever seen in my entire life. They were about
600 feet tall and the cliff wall was a sheer drop, allowing you to peek your head
over the edge of the cliff and get a hearty feeling of vertigo. The cliffs went
on for miles along the west coast of Ireland and we caught beautiful weather
while we were on top of the cliffs. I totally recommend visiting the cliffs to
anyone who’s still reading this blog post and would be more than happy to go
back and re-visit them with you in the future.
After taking in this amazing product of nature we turned around and made the trek back into town to grab some food and rest at Flannigan’s. Then we went back into town to get Margot’s ninth Shepard’s Pie while I had some amazing Irish Stew. The band started up about halfway through dinner so we enjoyed some nice Irish music while we chatted with our friend Cathal. Then we saw Shawn, a man in his mid-twenties from Australia who is working at the Flannigan’s, and he invited us to grab some drinks with some of the other hostel occupants at the bar down the road. We met up with them there a little later in the night and I met a kid named Con who is a little younger then Margot and I, from Germany, and also working at the hostel, as well as a kid named Mathew who is from just outside Paris and gave us some great tips on what to see when we’re in France in December. We didn’t stay out too late because we wanted to do Irish dancing back at the hostel but unfortunately discovered that it wasn’t happening that night after all.
After taking in this amazing product of nature we turned around and made the trek back into town to grab some food and rest at Flannigan’s. Then we went back into town to get Margot’s ninth Shepard’s Pie while I had some amazing Irish Stew. The band started up about halfway through dinner so we enjoyed some nice Irish music while we chatted with our friend Cathal. Then we saw Shawn, a man in his mid-twenties from Australia who is working at the Flannigan’s, and he invited us to grab some drinks with some of the other hostel occupants at the bar down the road. We met up with them there a little later in the night and I met a kid named Con who is a little younger then Margot and I, from Germany, and also working at the hostel, as well as a kid named Mathew who is from just outside Paris and gave us some great tips on what to see when we’re in France in December. We didn’t stay out too late because we wanted to do Irish dancing back at the hostel but unfortunately discovered that it wasn’t happening that night after all.
Inis Mor:
The next day we caught a ferry to Inis Mor, the largest of the Aran
Islands. It took us awhile to get out there so we didn’t arrive at the
Kilmurvey house B&B until about 6 PM. The bus we took to the hostel from
the ferry gave us some really interesting information on this island with a
population of just 900 people though. The island is 11 miles long and 3 miles
wide at its longest points and in 1790 the island had its largest population in
history at about 2,500 people. Due to TB a lot of the islands families were
completely wiped out just after this and the population has never been able to
build up to its former glory. The island is divided into 14 counties, has two
secondary schools, one primary school and a college where students all learn
Gaelic. There are also twelve houses on the island that still have traditional
thatch roofs made out of hay. This is different from the thatch roofs that you
see on the Irish main land which are made out of reed and only need to be
re-thatched about every 15 years. The hay roofs on Insi Mor need to be
re-thatched every 2-3 years and therefore are a lot harder to maintain. The
whole island is also covered by stone walls, separating everything into little
subdivisions which makes the whole island look like one giant maze. It was
really cool.
After storing our stuff in our rooms at the B&B we caught a ride with
owner of the house we were staying at named Bernte. He wasn’t much into
conversation during this ride as Margot discovered when she inquired about how
his day was going and only heard the cool ocean wind pass over the car as she
waited for a response. I falsely assumed this was because he had something
against American or non-Irish travelers but figured out a little later in the
night that he didn’t respond because Margot had called him Bernie instead of
Bernte. So giving up on the conversation with Bernte during this first drive we
turned to the couple next to us in the van and discovered that Peter and Sarah were
both originally from Georgia but were in the middle of a two year foreign
business adventure in Milan, Italy. Peter was working at PWC in Milan as an
Accounting Transaction Consultant while Sarah was working part time as an Accountant.
We ended up getting dinner with them at a pub in town and I couldn’t help but
discuss Accounting topics with them until the conversation moved on to their
humorous wedding circumstances. They had gotten married just a year before in
order for Sarah to be included on Peter’s work visa, otherwise she would have
been left behind in America. They were already engaged so it wasn’t as huge a
deal as it could have been when Peter called her up and asked if she was busy
this Friday because they kind of needed to get hitched. So they ended up
getting married with fifty strangers in a mass wedding, of which there were
only two Caucasians in the entire court hall and they just happened to be named
Peter and Sarah. One of the other fifty people sitting next to them engaged in
some conversation during the heart wrenching ceremony and they discovered that
he was a pimp marrying one of his working girls. They couldn’t help but chuckle
when the pimp brought his soon to be wife, wearing Nike Air Jordan High Heel
Pumps, up to say, “I do” and the judge informed him that he was still married
to his second wife. He then reached into his pocket and produced a death
certificate of his late wife so that the ceremony could proceed. The whole
story was very amusing and the good times continued to roll as our three hour
dinner with Peter and Sarah flew by in what seemed only a matter of minutes. After
we noticed the time and ran to the meeting spot to catch Bernte before he left
without us we had a lively discussion with Bernte about the island and his
family during our ride back to the B&B.
The following morning Margot and I had planned on waking up at five to
catch the sunrise at the fort just up the hill but after staring blankly at
each other and struggling to keep our eyes opened we decided to catch a couple
more hours of sleep before venturing up to the old fortress. We still managed
to get up there to experience the dawn and also beat all of the tourists, so we
had the whole place to ourselves. It was a really cool fortress that looked
very similar to the castle that was at Old Sarum since both no longer had any
walls and appeared to be made out of similar stone. During its hay day the ancient
fortress only had three outer walls, leaving the fourth wall open on the west
side which gave a direct view over the Atlantic and to the crashing waves
directly underneath the fortress. The fortress was built on top of a 100 foot
cliff that mirrored the ones we had seen at the Cliffs of Moher the day before
but on a much smaller scale. I can only imagine how many drunk Irish soldiers
accidentally fell over the cliffs and were lost to the sea over the years.
After taking some fun pictures on the edge of the cliff we made our way
back down the old fortress pathway to our B&B for a glorious breakfast of
eggs, yogurt, scones, sausage, bacon, bread, and to my dismay some blood
sausage. You see the day before when our ferry docked at Inis Oirr for a couple
hours Margot and I got some lunch at a cheap lunch stand sitting on the beach. Margot
got a cheeseburger but as I’m constantly trying to eat the local fare wherever
we go I got some blood sausage. Unfortunately a cheap rusty lunch stand on the
beach was probably not the best place to eat my first few links of blood
sausage. It was fucking disgusting, but I couldn’t bring myself to waste the
money I had spent on the sausage and throw it away so I stomached the sausage
and fought a queezy feeling for the rest of the day. So when I ate what should
have been a delicious piece of blood sausage the next morning I was immediately
reminded of the previous days’ sausage and it just ruined the whole experience.
After the sausage, Bernte took
us by the islands seal colony on our way back into town to catch the ferry to
Doolin. The tide was still too far in however so we could only see the seals
swimming around and none of them were out sun-bathing yet. It was still pretty
cool and Bernte said at least a hundred seals lived in the cove there. After reaching
town we geared up for a long day of traveling and with a bit of luck it went
off without a hitch. First we took the ferry back to Doolin, making stops at Inis
Meain and Inis Oirr. The previous day Margot had befriended a couple from New
Jersey on the ferry into Inis Mor and they happened to be on our same ferry
going back to Doolin. So Margot struck up another conversation with them and by
the time we were cruising into Doolin they had offered to give us a ride into
town to the bus stop. By the time our ferry got to Doolin the tide was all the
way out and so we had to anchor the ferry about 1,000 yards from the dock and
get relayed onto shore on a little boat that only held about 10 people per
trip. Luckily we got on the second boat while the man from Jersey had gotten on
the first and was running to get the car for us. We found him when we reached
shore and he dropped us off at the bus station literally one minute before our
bus arrived to take us into Galway. If we had missed this bus we would have had
to wait another 3 ½ hours for the next bus so thank god we caught it. Then we
had to endure the 6 hour bus ride back to Dublin and ended up staying at the
same hostel as we had earlier in the week. After another low key night we got
up early to catch a flight to Amsterdam.
Amsterdam:
When we
arrived in Amsterdam we started walking through the airport to find the metro
and noticed a couple young security guards armed to the teeth with an AK, two
hand guns, a couple tazer guns and a bunch of other handy gadgets. It didn’t
bother me but was a bit of a reality check as to where I was and how things
were different here from back in Colorado. When we got off the metro at
Centraal Station I was amazed at how huge it was, I’d never been in a train
station that large before. After visiting Copenhagen I’m beginning to realize
how common these huge train stations are but at the time it blew me away. From
Centraal Station we had a short ten minute walk to our B&B, which happened
to be just 5 minutes down the canal from the Anne Frank house. After getting
situated we spent this first night just walking around exploring the area,
grabbing some dinner and eventually venturing over to the Red Light District. We
didn’t stay out too late this first night and got a good night rest instead. The
following day we went to the Westerkerk which translates to Western Church and
is located right next to the Anne Frank House. Frank frequently referred to the
church in her diary, saying that its bell tower gave her comfort when it chimed
and that she became disgruntled when the Nazi’s melted it down to use its metal
to make bullets. The church was very different from those we saw in England and
Ireland. It had no stained glass, which may have been due to the destruction of
WWII, but was also completely white and gold inside. It was bright and picturesque
whereas the cathedrals in England where decked out in stained glass and the
interiors were decorated in very dark colors. The contrast between them was
very dramatic but I found both of the styles to be beautiful in their own ways.
After
the church we grabbed these awesome sandwiches at a local sandwich shop and
Margot couldn't help but laugh at the size of my sandwich compared to hers.
During the course of the trip up to this point my main goals when ordering food
have been to experience the local fare and to get large portions. However,
exhibited by my consistent answer of, "I'm starving!" whenever Margot
asks if I'm hungry, I've failed to the point of hilarity in achieving large
meal portions. Somehow whenever we order food Margot always ends up with a
larger portion of food than I do, no matter how hard I try to combat these
disproportionate meal sizes. My stomach finds it torturous but I can't help but
laugh at the consistency of my meal failures. From the sandwich shop we went to
the famous Rijksmuseum and spent several hours admiring all of the artwork. The trademark Dutch delftware was all over the place and
incredibly beautiful. They also did a great job of telling the Dutch history through
the artwork which I must admit I didn’t know a whole lot about beforehand.
There was this one painting that stuck out to me during my visit because it was
so different from the rest of the art. While some of the art in the museum was
somber or displayed warzones from afar, only one picture was actually gruesome.
It was a painting of the De Witt brothers after they had been lynched in the
late 17th century by an angry mob. Johan De Witt was an important Dutch
political figure during the Franco-Dutch war and was supposedly in charge of
keeping the Amsterdam safe during this time, which he failed to do when the
French and English attacked the city. As retribution when another political party
took power, Johan and his brother Cornelis were taken from their jail cells and
lynched by a large mob that mutilated their bodies and even ate some of their
body parts. This was a painting displaying the aftermath of the events. The
museum also contained the original painting of the Night Watch by Rembrandt which
was pretty cool. So far during this trip I’ve been much more fascinated by sculpting’s
though and I really enjoyed one they had at the Rijksmuseum of Cupid. He had
this mischievous look on his face and was reaching into his quiver for another
arrow while holding his finger to his lips telling someone to be quiet.
After the museum we walked over
to the van Loon museum which Margot obviously found an interest in since her
last name is van Loon. Unfortunately, the museum was closed on Tuesdays so we
couldn’t go inside but we still managed to snap a couple pictures of Margot in
front of it. We continued to move on down the road to the Tulip Fair which was
huge since Amsterdam is famous for Tulips after all. Then we went home to get
some rest before going back out later that night. Margot really wanted to go to
an Indonesian restaurant for dinner since the Netherlands colonized Indonesia but
instead we kept running into Argentinean restaurants. They infested every
street corner and we couldn’t figure why there were so many in Amsterdam but we
finally found an Indonesian restaurant and ended up having some great food. After
dinner we took another stroll through the Red Light District and decided that the
Monday night girls were much better looking than the Tuesday night girls for
some reason. And laughed about how well the prostitution fit in with the surrounding
people and business establishments; there were families and high class
restaurants sharing walls with many of these places. After enjoying a lengthy
night stroll we found our way back to our B&B and got up early the next morning
to go to the Anne Frank House. This was a really interesting and emotional
experience and my favorite part of our time in Amsterdam. I hadn’t read Anne
Frank’s Diary since middle school so I was a little fuzzy on the details but
the exhibit did a great way of introducing and feeding you information about
her experience. At the end you got to see footage of Auschwitz after it had
been freed from the Nazi’s and heard from Anne’s father Otto. This was probably
the saddest part of the tour since it really hit home what happened to all of
these people and what Anne eventually went through. Especially after getting to
know Anne through her diary, seeing how human she was and noticing the similarities
between herself and you, seeing what went on in these concentration camps became
incredibly disheartening. But it’s also something that I would definitely
recommend seeing and experiencing yourself. One thing that I’m disappointed not
to be seeing during this trip is Auschwitz, because even though it’s a really
sad and depressing place I feel that it would be amazing to see since it is
such a huge part of human history.
After the Anne Frank house
Margot wanted to go to the Tulip and Cheese museum, which she did while I went
shopping for delftware. Afterwards we got an amazing lunch at the Pancake
Factory, grabbed our stuff and had a couple beers by one of the canals while we
waited for our overnight train to Copenhagen.